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Rows of votive dolls covering the halls of Awashima Shrine, Kada, Wakayama

Wakayama · Japan

Awashima Shrine

A seaside shrine in the port town of Kada, dedicated to women's health — and one of the most startling sights in Wakayama, its halls and porches lined with an estimated 20,000 dolls left by worshippers.

Motokoka · CC BY-SA 4.0

A doll memorial shrine, not a haunted house

The dolls at Awashima Shrine are not a horror attraction. In Japan, dolls are often felt to carry something of the people who owned and loved them, and ningyo kuyo lets owners retire them with respect: the dolls are purified in the main hall and eventually burned at the shrine's sacred fire. Those you see lining the porches, halls and shelves are arranged roughly by type, and the sheer number is what stops people in their tracks.

Awashima Shrine's origin story links it to the island across the water. According to the shrine, Empress Jingu, caught in a storm on her way home from a campaign in Korea, was guided to Tomogashima, where Sukunahikona and Okuninushi were worshipped. Her grandson, Emperor Nintoku, later moved the shrine across to Kada on the third day of the third month, which the shrine connects to the date of Japan's Doll Festival. The shrine also teaches that the first pair of hina dolls were modelled on its statues of Sukunahikona and Empress Jingu. Kamishima, the small island off Tomogashima said to be the shrine's original home, is strictly protected and cannot be landed on.

The Kishu Tokugawa lords were patrons. When a daughter was born into the family, a pair of hina dolls was offered here for her first Doll Festival, and the white Hinagura storehouse in the grounds was built by the 10th lord, Harutomi. The treasure hall that holds the Tokugawa dolls and other offerings opens only for group reservations (¥300 for adults, ¥200 for children).

Look out, too, for the Kibun Inari shrine, said to have been dedicated by Kinokuniya Bunzaemon, the Edo merchant born near here, and the old mast from his mandarin-orange ship: the shrine says that passing through the hole in it while making a wish brings the wish true. Frogs, the messengers of Sukunahikona, have their own small hall.

Awashima Shrine stands by the sea in Kada, a small port town at the northwest tip of Wakayama City facing the Kitan Strait. It is about a 20-minute walk from Nankai Kada Station. Three souvenir stalls on the approach sell local seafood, grilled turban shells and yomogi mochi (mugwort rice cakes), though they may close in bad weather.

Rows of donated Japanese dolls lined up along the vermilion railings of Awashima Shrine
Dolls brought for memorial offering, lined up along the railings of the shrine hall.

m-louis .® · CC BY-SA 2.0

Where to stay nearby

Kada is a small onsen town, and its handful of harbour-side hotels are the closest lodging to the shrine.

Places to stay near Awashima Shrine
LodgingFrom (per night)What makes it differentBook
Kada Kaigetsu$120A hot-spring hotel on the Kada waterfront with seafood dinners, a few minutes' walk from the Tomogashima ferry pier and within walking distance of the shrine.Booking.com →
Kyukamura Kishu-Kada$95A Kyukamura resort lodge on a headland just outside Kada, with ocean-view baths and simpler pricing than the private ryokan in town.Booking.com →
Prices are per-night starting rates in USD, seen on listings shortly before publication.

Before you go

The Hina-nagashi boat ceremony is younger than it looks. According to the prefecture's archive, floating dolls out on boats began in 1962, and the number of boats rose from two to three in 1991.

Other dates at Awashima Shrine: Hari-kuyo on 8 February from 11:00, a memorial for old sewing needles, which are purified and buried in the needle mound; the Nagoshi summer purification after sunset on 31 July, with a grass ring to walk through; and the Amazake Festival on 3 October from 11:00, when sweet sake made from new rice is handed out free. From mid-June to 7 July, the shrine provides free tanabata wish strips for children.

Leaving a doll? The rules are strict. Dolls are accepted 9:00–16:00, but not on butsumetsu days (unlucky days on the traditional Japanese calendar), from 20 December to 3 January, or from 20 February to 3 March. The shrine takes the doll only, not glass cases, boxes or accessories, and does not accept dolls by post or courier. There is a memorial offering plus an incineration fee.

Awashima Shrine is small and can be seen properly in 20–30 minutes. Most visitors combine it with a walk around Kada's harbour or with Tomogashima: the ferry leaves from Kada Port in the same town, and the island takes about half a day.

There is no lodging at the shrine itself. The nearest options are the onsen hotels in Kada, listed below. Kada is on the far side of Wakayama City from Kimiidera and Negoroji, so plan those for another day; see our Wakayama City guide for how the area fits together.

Fishing boats moored in the calm water of Kada port with green hills behind
Kada port, a short walk from the shrine and the departure point for the ferry to Tomogashima.

KENPEI · CC BY-SA 3.0

Hours, fees and key dates

Awashima Shrine itself is free to visit; only doll offerings and the treasure hall cost money.

Awashima Shrine: hours, fees and annual events
ItemWhenNotes
Shrine grounds and amulet office9:00–17:00, dailyFree
Doll offerings9:00–16:00Not on butsumetsu days, 20 Dec–3 Jan or 20 Feb–3 Mar; not by post
Treasure hallGroup reservations only¥300 adults, ¥200 children
Hari-kuyo (needle memorial)8 February, from 11:00Old needles purified and laid to rest
Hina-nagashi3 March, from noonDoll boats launched around 13:10; no cars
Nagoshi summer purification31 July, after sunsetPass through the grass ring
Amazake Festival3 October, from 11:00Free sweet sake
Sources: Awashima Shrine — visiting guide, Awashima Shrine — annual events, Wakayama Prefecture cultural archive — Hina-nagashi.

Getting to Awashima Shrine

From Nankai Wakayamashi Station, take the Nankai Kada Line to Kada Station (about 25 minutes), then walk about 20 minutes to the shrine. From JR Wakayama Station, first take the JR Kisei Line to Wakayamashi Station.

From Namba in Osaka, allow about 100 minutes to Kada Station by Nankai, changing at Wakayamashi. From Kansai Airport, allow about 70 minutes by Nankai, changing at Izumisano and Wakayamashi.

By car, Kada is about 40 minutes from the Wakayama IC of the Hanwa Expressway. The shrine has paid parking, with a 30-minute discount for worshippers (show your parking ticket at the amulet office). Do not drive on 3 March.